CUSO Challenge Day 4 - The Ancascocha Trail: Part 1

The famous “Inca Trail” is but 45 kms of the over 25,000 kms of ‘roads’ built by the Inca. The last 12 km of this popular trail leads to Intipunku (the Sun Gate), the only way to currently access Machu Picchu site other than by bus from the town below. It is therefore heavily travelled.  But there are many other Inca trails throughout the Andes that are accessible and some have also been heavily used by the adventure tourism industry. The Ancascocha Trail has recently been offered as a more remote, less developed alternative to the more popular treks. This was our trail for the first three days of the trek. 

Parpishu (2900m) - Chilipahua  (3750 m) (11.2 km)

We left our hotel in Cusco (3480m) by 6:30 am for the 1.5 hr drive down toward the Urubamba River in the valley to the trailhead.  

The support team and the pack horses were already there and some headed off as we lathered on the sunscreen, adjusted hiking poles, and generally prepared for the hike. 

The trail began at once to ascend and we soon left the valley and the road far below.  The pace was slow, thankfully. 

After about an hour we stopped for a break at a shelter where we squeezed together to share its shade.  

Another couple of periods of walking followed by a break brought us to some Inca ruins known as Huatta (or Wata). (3800 m)

We had 3 guides walking with us, one at the front, one in the middle and one taking up the rear.  The doctor (Yes, we had our very own doctor walking with us) and three ‘ambulance’ horses to carry packs or people who might need some support were also following behind. 

We didn’t have any emergencies, but a couple of participants did make use of the horses at various times over the 3 days. 

As the day progressed, the group spread out as people with different paces fell into place. Happily, I found myself in the middle group playing leapfrog, each of us needing to stop at different times to catch our breath and allow our heartbeat to slow down. 

We were happy, and impressed, when we approached our lunch spot for the day - dining tents, soap and water and a hot 3-course meal ready for us! 

After lunch the trail slowly descended into a valley. A few hours of hiking later, we were feeling pretty tired and were excited when we could see our camp in the distance. 

Camps were generally set up the same way. A semi-circle of 10 tents for us, three for the guides and the doctor, a kitchen tent, and a couple more tents off in the distance for all the other support staff.  

There were always a couple of washing up stations next to the dining tents and filtered water to replenish our bottles. We had two toilet tents set up a short distance away. 

Our horses, local cows and, of course, dogs, shared the spaces. On this first night, Darlene, our doctor, 'adopted' a little puppy that wasn't looking very healthy. 

We were a happy but tired bunch making our way to bed under the brilliant star-lit night sky after another 3-course meal and a briefing of what to expect the next day.